Thursday, December 2, 2021
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FWB Food & Wine: The Egg and I

🕐 4 min read

There are two new breakfast spots in Ridglea Village −− something that has been a scarce commodity in that area. The Egg & I just opened on June 1, in the former Yoko Sushi space. With over 100 restaurants nationwide (36 in Texas alone), this is a proven format that should go over well. With many varieties of eggs Benedict, waffles, frittatas and scrabbles, it will give comparable chains, like IHOP, a run for their money.

Longtime Westsiders first fell in love with Paula’s Tea Room when it opened in 1974. It has been known as The Lunch Box for decades, and still sports the retro citron yellow and green color-scheme that lunchtime patrons have grown to love. On May 4, they began offering breakfast service seven days a week. The Brioche French Toast ($5) is a highlight. With pricing all below $8, it will be crawling with early-risers, when the doors open at 7 a.m.

Fort Worth has a plethora of Japanese and Thai fare, but options are super-slim for true Chinese. I have been tapping my toe for almost a year since owners Casey Kha and brother-in-law Jarry Ho, first told me their plan to open Cannon Chinese Kitchen. Cannon continues the small plates scheme popularized at their Shinjuku Station, which is very appropriate for classic Chinese preparations, since family-style or shareable dining is the norm in any Chinatown from New York to San Francisco. Service began in early April and lunch service on April 30. “The Sausage and Leek Fried Rice reminds me of my childhood,” said Kha, and the Sweet and Sour Ribs are a must. Set in a Depression era home (built in 1935 to be exact), the space has been fabulously refurbished.

Meanwhile, Tokyo Cafe devotees have been waiting patiently for owner Jarry Ho to bring Cannon Chinese Kitchen online before re-focusing his attention on the necessary repairs to the fire-damaged Camp Bowie staple. Hang in there…Tokyo Cafe will rise like a Phoenix from the ashes by year end −− work is currently underway −− and it was confirmed that Chef Kevin Martinez will back in the kitchen.

Revolver Taco is closing it’s much beloved West Seventh location on June 30. After that you will have to drive to Deep Ellum to savor their excellent sushi-grade Ceviches or get your Huitlacoche fix (don’t ask what it is −− just eat it −− for some reason “corn fungus” just doesn’t sound as tasty). Owner Gino Rojas is moving Revolver Taco to Deep Ellum to underscore his statement regarding corporate greed, “Our landlord decided to sell the building without giving us an opportunity to buy the property…We know this side of the street has been neglected by city officials because they have other plans for the area and those plans are all about money and not about the community,” he said.

Luckily la familia Rojas are not leaving us hungry. Their second outpost Campestre Chula Vista, still has my favorite Mole Coloradito on the menu, and comes complete with one of the most charming patios in town. Watch for my full review in a couple of weeks.

Fans were sad to see Saffron Sky Mediterranean (which first opened in 2012) close abruptly on Valentine’s Day. The former space in a strip located just across Bryant Irvin from the Ridglea Theatre has already been converted into Pan Asia Sushi and Ramen Grill −− reviews are very mixed. Plans are in the works to re-open as Saffron Sky Bakery Cafe soon at 449 N. Beach St. They will continue serving up their classic Lebanese specialties while adding authentic baked goods to the menu (which has been a long-term dream for owner Sam Shaban and family) with delicacies like freshly baked baklava.

Taco Heads food truck (which is parked conveniently on West 7th), will have new digs next year. They have signed on as tenants of the up-and-coming South Main Village. Owner Sandra Castillo and Managing Partner Jacob Watson are putting down permanent roots in the warehouse at 119 South Main, in what is being called the SoMa District. Developer Lori Henderson said, “Taco Heads will be occupying a currently unused portion of the W. A. Powers Company warehouses. Steven Halliday and Jason Eggenburger from Studio 97w Architecture are helping to preserve the character and style of these 1930’s buildings.” Along with an expanded menu, Taco Heads will be adding a full bar, and even has plans for a rooftop bar with view to downtown. They are shooting for a 2016 opening. Henderson said, “We are thinking Februaryish.”

Salsa Fuego Cocina Mexicana -Tacos y Tequila Bar is now new and improved. Those in search of true border-town Mexican food have flocked to Salsa Fuego and Chef Carlos Rodriguez’ dishes for years. The Red Dragon Chinese signage and pagoda accents are still out front, but the inside is now modern and updated. The grand re-opening from the highly-acclaimed original storefront (named to Texas Monthly’s Top 50 Mexican in 2010), has taken ages. Seriously, it took close to a full year! The old site will become Fuego Burger (eventually). Let’s just take one thing at a time.

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