You can’t go wrong with the 2015 wines from Austria. A few whites are already on the market, with more to come in the fall. The caveat: These wines are sommelier favorites that are more easily found on restaurant wine lists than on retail shelves. My advice: Ask your retailer to stock some Austrian 2015s.
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GREAT VALUE
Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner 2015
Three stars.
Kamptal, Austria, $18
Grüner Veltliner at its best, as it is here, resembles sauvignon blanc with its refreshing acidity and food-friendly balance. Then it adds some lemon grass and white pepper. This wine is racy, exciting and a terrific value for the price. Alcohol by volume: 12.5 percent.
GREAT VALUE
Anton Bauer Gruner Veltliner Rosenberg 2015
Three stars.
Wagram, Austria, $20
Rich and fat – well, plump, maybe; this is a grüner, after all – it has apple, quince and pear flavors up front and a whiff of white flowers on the finish. ABV: 12.5 percent.
GREAT VALUE
Tegernseerhof T26 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 2015
Two and a half stars.
Wachau, Austria, $17
This is racy and lithe, with citrus and peach blossom and a hint of talc. It disappeared so fast, I thought my bottle had sprung a leak. ABV: 12.5 percent.
GREAT VALUE
Loimer Riesling Langenlois 2014
Two and a half stars.
Kamptal, Austria, $21
Mention Riesling, and Austria does not usually come to mind. That is unfortunate. Austrian Rieslings are dry, mineral and often exhilarating. Fred Loimer practices biodynamic viticulture and leaves the grapes on the skins for several hours, producing wines with a bit more body and heft than many of his neighbors’. The 2014 Langenlois Riesling is compelling, and it benefits from having the extra time in bottle. ABV: 11 percent.
GREAT VALUE
Berger Gruner Veltliner 2015
Two stars.
Lower Austria, $15, 1 liter
It’s simple, quaffable and delicious, and with the liter-size bottle, you get more. ABV: 12 percent.
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Three stars Exceptional, two stars Excellent, one star Very Good
Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.